I won`t be able to post for at least the first part of our upcoming Japan trip, because I won`t be bringing my laptop, and my in-laws (gasp!) don`t have a computer.
The reason I`m not bringing the laptop after all, even though
I bought it specifically with this trip in mind, is that Hub waited so long to book our tickets that the boys and I were unable to get a connecting flight from Narita to Osaka. This means we'll be taking the train in to Tokyo, where we`ll board the shinkansen (bullet train) for Kyoto.
It`s not such a bad trip, from Tokyo to Kyoto -- less than three hours -- but after a trans-Pacific flight, with a four-year old in tow, I`m really not looking forward to it. I will certainly be a sleep-deprived zombie, and minimizing my luggage is key to making all the transfers without leaving my little boy behind. (My older boy, god bless him, is big enough to carry several times his weight in luggage. Or at least he will if I threaten him enough, and perhaps even poke him repeatedly with a sharp stick. Whatever it takes.)
I have to stay awake and pay attention on the shinkansen, because it does make several stops before Kyoto. I have no desire to repeat a heart-stopping moment when Daughter was about two years old, and we were on our way Kyoto, and she jumped out of her seat, darted between passengers` legs, and GOT OFF THE TRAIN IN NAGOYA BY HERSELF.
Of course, I was in hot pursuit and managed to grab her and pull her back on, but I had somewhat more trouble moving through the crowd of other passengers. What if the doors had closed, and the train had sped away, leaving my toddler on the platform? Oh god -- we would have made the national news.... "Foreign Mother Lets Baby Disembark Without Her!" (...shudder...)
Going to Kyoto is always like entering a time warp.
For one thing, Hub`s ancestral home is very Meiji, and the people in it didn`t advance much farther.
When I first started dating Hub, in 1985, his mother told me the house was "about 75 years old." Hub`s grandfather built it himself, out of scrap lumber, but he appears to have gotten hold of some pretty good "scrap," because the beams and pillars are quite thick.
Hub`s mother now says the house is "about 80 years old," meaning the house has only aged five years in the last 20. Obviously, no one has any idea how old it really is. I`m sure it`s recorded somewhere, if anyone ever bothers to look it up, but as far as I know, no one has.
The best thing about the house is that it`s right in the geographical center of Kyoto, if you look at a map: near the Senbon/Marutamachi intersection. There`s lots of great places within walking distance, and there`s even better places within a short bus/subway ride.
My mother-in-law was the youngest of six siblings, and my father-in-law was the youngest of seven. This means both of them, who are now around 70, are the products of traditional pre-war Japanese families, with traditional family values. These can be summed up as, "Fathers and sons are great, and mothers and daughters get to take care of them."
Every morning, my mother-in-law rises at 6:00 am, does the laundry, and hangs in out in the yard to dry. She has a dryer -- in fact,
we gave her the dryer -- but like most Japanese people, she prefers to save on her utility bill and let the air dry it. (Some people insist that laundry dried outside in fresh, clean air smells better, and as soon as I live in a Japanese city with fresh, clean air, I will let you know if this is true.)
She always instructs us to leave our dirty clothes in a pile by the back door. I tell her I prefer to do our own laundry myself later, but she`s always adamant that I not interfere with her laundry routine. So I leave our clothes in her pile.
Do I wake up at 6:00? No, of course not -- I sleep until 7:30 or 8:00, with Hub and the kids. This is always a point of contention between Hub and myself.
"Why don`t you wake up at 6:00 and do the laundry with my mother?"
"Why don`t
you?"
"Because she won`t let me!"
Alas, this is true. If Hub attempts to wash a dish or vacuum, she physically wrests it out of his hands. Whenever she saw him change a diaper -- particularly if I happened to be sitting in the same room, watching TV or reading -- her face would crumple into a scowl.
The compromise is, I usually manage to wake up and do laundry with her once or twice, but I sleep in the rest of the time. I keep repeating to her my offer to do our laundry a few hours later in the morning, and she keeps refusing. This routine is now in its fifteenth year, and is unlikely to change any time soon.
My mother-in-law is not an unkind woman, but she`s a product of a different culture and a different era. She didn`t get to go to college as she`d wanted, she entered an arranged marriage and moved into her in-law`s house, and she raised three kids with no household help from Hub`s father. She then she cared for her own elderly, bedridden mother-in-law for eight years, feeding her, bathing her, changing her diapers, until she died at the age of 90.
And now that my mother-in-law is getting older herself, she can`t retire -- she still has to take care of Hub`s father.
Let me tell you a little story about my father-in-law. He`s really a generous, good-natured guy, with a heart of gold, but he, too, is a product of a different culture and a different era.
Once, when I was visiting Kyoto, he sat down at the kitchen table and asked me to please make him a cup of instant coffee.
He asked me very nicely, so I didn`t act on my first instinct, which was, of course, to ask him why he couldn`t make it himself.
"How many lumps of sugar do you want in it?" I asked him.
He had no idea. He went to ask my mother-in-law.
Whenever I start to complain about Hub doing less around the house than I do, I have to remind myself -- he`s come a long, long way from the house in which he was raised.
Anyway, when we get to Tokyo, I should be able to scrouge up a computer somewhere, and hopefully, I`ll be able to post. I`m sure I`ll have plenty of in-law stories, as always. We`ll be back in SF on July 31.
(
Will any bloggers in Japan be in Kyoto next week, or in central Tokyo the two weeks after that? If so -- leave a comment with your email, and maybe we can meet for coffee.)